The Watches of Our Dreams

Brian Duffy, CEO of the Watches of Switzerland Group

The watch of my dreams? It’s impossible to say really. I had the honour to be on the Jury of The Grand Prix D’Horlogerie De Genève for the first time this year and had the opportunity to examine and discuss some unusual pieces with watchmakers and true experts. I came away with several additions to my wish list, such as Octo Finissimo from Bulgari that scooped the Aiguille D’Or prize, and the Bernhardt Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer.

Some of these pieces will add to my more predictable list of a Patek Philippe Steel Nautilus, the green dial Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin in platinum (GPHG winner) and from Rolex, perhaps surprisingly, the full diamond pavé Yachtmaster which I tried on at one of our VIP events and loved – the perfect Tuxedo watch. I would love to own an MB&F – probably a Legacy Machine…the green Aston Martin chrono from Gerrard Perragaux is a cracker and I will be buying the Watches of Switzerland Exclusive Breitling Endurance Pro. A Cartier Santos is also on my list, and I love everything that H. Moser is doing. What a great job I have!

Craig Bolton, Executive Director – UK

I am so very fortunate that in my role I get to see, appreciate, and experience so many wonderful watches made by the world’s finest brands. For me, it is incredibly difficult to decide upon my ‘dream watch’. However, I have narrowed it down to the Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time (5990).

This is a great looking watch, monochromatic and sporty, and a look that will go well with everything. The travel time function indicates the time in two different zones, which would be a great asset to me right now! Coupled with the 60-minute chronograph and its own Patek Philippe movement, this watch really is exceptional.

Patek Philippe is without doubt a brand I desire to own. Sadly, I don’t think I am the only one wishing for this watch for Christmas. I would be incredibly lucky to find this under my tree!

Mark Toulson, Head of Watch Buying

One of the downsides of having the best job in the world is that I see a lot of watches that I’d love to own but they’re either out of my budget, extremely scarce or both. Back in 2018 when Patek announced the Aquanaut Chronograph I was immediately awestruck. Apart from the Aquanaut being an icon for the brand, and the skill and craftsmanship employed in its manufacture, Geneva’s finest brand had introduced an unexpected flash of orange to the hands and dial as a contrast against the black dial. They’d also supplied it with a second matching orange strap, and it looks just amazing! It’s a watch both expansive and scarce but at the top of my list of grail watches because I love its look, and the colour adds a sporty, zesty freshness to a fantastic timepiece.

At the moment there are lots of blue dialled watches on the market, and it’s great for me as I love blue. I’ve realised though that I don’t own a blue watch. I usually say that choice is the enemy of decision making but amongst the many blues out there, the recently launched Club Sport Neomatik is a real frontrunner. I love Nomos for their subtle quirkiness and excellent value for money and for a shade over £3,000 you get the novelty of their ingenious swing system escapement, 1,000ft of water resistance in a 42mm steel case and of course the aforementioned blue dial. With its bold, white Superluminova hands and markers providing a contrast to the deep blue dial, its one cool looking and feature packed watch.

Finally, a choice that may surprise those who know me. I’m far from “flash” so on the surface my choice of an 18ct yellow gold Day-Date with a green ombre diamond set dial may seem a little “out there”. It really isn’t though. Yellow gold is a classic precious metal and one I feel is due for a resurgence in popularity in 2022. The green dial? Well, Rolex have long associated themselves with that colour, and the light to dark ombre effect is just wonderful to behold. Diamonds? OK, they are a big statement, but they are the hour markers so have a function at least! The whole combination of the green dial, polished and satin finished yellow gold just works for me and above all else it’s a Rolex Day-Date and that is of course just magical.

Faye Soteri, Senior Watch Buyer - International

I’ve always been a fan of Zenith and watched it over the years, I think it’s fair to say it’s been the underdog in the line-up of the luxury Swiss watch industry but its credibility over the El Primero movement has firmly given the brand its position amongst its piers. This sleeping giant has just been waiting for the right time to really impact upon the industry and watch enthusiasts. And now is that time, it’s a brand with heritage and legacy, I’ve always loved authenticity and Zenith have maintained this and its loyalty to the movement which they are known for. I’m also a fan of vintage watches so the Chronometer Revival El Primero A3817 is winner for me. It speaks to all the strengths of the brand as it reaches into its archives introducing this model to a new generation.

Lisa Broun, Senior Watch Buyer

The trend of larger watches for ladies is on the rise and when Breitling first introduced the Ladies Chronomat, it went straight to the top of my wish list. The Chronomat was originally introduced by Ernest Schneider to meet the needs of the renowned Italian Frecce Tricolori Jet team that needed a chronograph for its pilots. Schneider did not want to offer an adaptation of an existing model and instead designed a bold piece to perfectly suit the Italian pilots’ desires. At the time, thin quartz movements were all the rage, so Breitling’s introduction of this bold mechanical timepiece was a huge statement from the brand – and it paved the way for the iconic Breitling spirit we all know and love today.

Fast forward to 2020 and Breitling introduced the 32mm and 36mm lines of the Chronomat that were dedicated to women, reminding us of Ernest Schneider’s original inspiration of a bold timepiece that was not an adaptation of an existing model. A new squad was introduced alongside the Chronomat models that highlighted three leading ladies in their own industry who are known for their fierce, boundary pushing nature.

Keeping design elements of the original but taking on several aesthetic and technical evolutions, my favourite timepiece in this collection must be this stainless steel automatic 36mm. It offers the perfect balance between a robust and technically innovative timepiece, yet with an elegant and androgynous design.

I love the simplistic colourway, and the added touch of the diamonds above the indices enhances the versatility of this timepiece. Subtle hints throughout this watch offer a mixed metal approach, without it overwhelming the entire piece, which for me is the perfect touch of understated femininity. Equipped with Breitling’s Calibre 10, there is no compromise when it comes to the movement. I love that this watch represents Breitling’s philosophy and is perfect for the modern-day woman who is looking for a striking statement piece. A luxurious and bold piece that is ideal for every pursuit, there is no doubt that a Breitling Chronomat is next on my wishlist.

Discover the Watch of Your Dreams here at Mappin & Webb.